Dear David: I just reread Mark’s letter and still wonder what this car thing is all about. Why don’t you write me in detail just what the scare is on the whole thing. We took a tour this a.m. and saw the Royal Palace and Temple of Emerald Buddha. Those two places are the show places of Bangkok. Dad attended Rotary at noon. We took another tour this afternoon and saw the great reclining Buddha which is covered with gold and looks like it is a block long. I took a picture of the bottom of two toes – couldn’t get the whole figure in our camera. We also viewed the Marble Temple and Temple of solid gold Buddha. At one time of he[?] the figure was covered with plaster to disguise it from enemy then people forgot about it. Only in recent years did the plaster begin to peal off and was discovered they had a Ft. Knox here in Bangkok. We also visited UNICEF office and received some literature on their work here. Drove thru Chinatown section. We have tickets to attend Thai dance performance tonight at 9 p.m. We are just loafing around before going to eat dinner. We had some nuts and a drink about 5 o’clock and I am not too hungry. There is a swimming pool with a terrace for watching and that was where we loafed and had our refreshments. There are no Methodists here – or at least couldn’t find any listed in Prayer Calendar. There are some Catholics. Dad said the Rotary Club was quite international and there is a Masonic Lodge here. Fri. a.m. – Had breakfast with a couple from Philadelphia – they have left now on a tour we are waiting for. We are going to pack this afternoon for our departure tomorrow a.m. It is 18 miles to airport and we had to be there an hour or two before flight since we have to go thru customs, I will be glad when we get to Malacca. We will be there about 1 ½ days. It is so hot here it has a tendency to make one a little lazy. However the hotel where we are staying has air conditioning and I have to wear a light wrap when we dine. Our room is too cold for me but Dad likes it. We sleep under wool blankets – real crazy isn’t it. – Fri. a.m. – later almost noon. We have had another tour in a motor boat. Yesterday Dad said if he saw another Temple he thought he would throw-up – however he wasn’t quite that nice – just translate into something Uncle Floyd would say and you will have his words. We went to one today but it didn’t seem to have an ill effect upon him. The one we saw – or one of the ones we saw had a stairway on outside with 59 steps – and steep too. We didn’t go to the last step – just about 1/3 of the way, and took some pictures. We keep snapping and we are to run out of film today but can get all we want here at their price which is much more than in Singapore Hong Kong. We should have bought more while we were there. Everything but food is very expensive here. We are thru sightseeing and just intend to loaf around the rest of today. I called U.S.I.S. Mon. – Mr. Robert Lasker about going into Cambodia. He said it was safe for us to go. Woman at Travel Agency said the hotels there are booked full until April, so people keep going to see the sights. We have been told the accommodations aren’t so good but I think we can put up with it one night. We saw water people again today – something akin to what we saw in Hong Kong. Floating markets. We were on a river this morning and saw how the people live on edge of river and canals. They use the river for everything but drinking. They have large jars rain water is kept in for drinking but they wash their dishes in the river. We saw so many children in their birthday suits. When we were in Bali we saw something and
[page 2] although government has decreed the women must wear something above waists we saw many – of all ages – with just sarong. John said only filthy minded foreigners stared at Bali women who go bare breasted. I took one picture of a group of children in Bali in their birthday clothes but we were in a shady spot so it may not be any good. I think most of the Bali pictures should be good. We sent a box of Dad’s things back home today – his overcoat and a jacket and pr. of pants. We decided we didn’t need the radio so put it in and the large collection of literature we have gathered as we have traveled. It certainly gets heavy, but there is so much I want to show you when we get home. We collected quite a load of Methodist literature in Hong Kong. We were up early this a.m. for our motor trip and since we ate light breakfast are ready for something substantial. Let us have details of why you can’t drive the car.
We had a letter from Mark waiting for us here in Bangkok. He told us about car and we don’t know quite what to think about the situation. Of course there isn’t much we can do about it from here, but I rather think our agent in Kentland will hear about this when we get home. I can’t understand why you couldn’t you our car if all the other students from our town such as Julie and others drive cars to school. I hope that won’t alter your plans to meet us when we get home. I am enclosing a photo copy of bill for you to use to get your suit. I didn’t quite know all I should have known about regulations before we mailed packages amounting to more than $10.00. I had to have a photo copy made of bill for pearls I purchased and sent home. Customs office in Chicago is holding Mark informed me in letter I received today. Since it was the middle of morning when we arrived we didn’t do much but loaf around. We had a very smooth fast flight from Djakarta and were we glad to shake the dust of that place off our feet. I am glad John is coming home. Everyone we talked to was pretty much of same opinion. We haven’t planned anything for this evening but will have a tour tomorrow and one Friday. Will go to see performance of Thai dancing tomorrow evening. This is the hotel where John stayed and we had a coke & ginger ale by the swimming pool we have pictures of. I am not sure where your suit will be sent but I think there is a customs office in Indianapolis. It shouldn’t take more than 6 weeks for it to reach you. There is a Rotary meeting at this hotel tomorrow noon. I don’t know whether Dad will be back in time from our tour. We have our flight to Cambodia confirmed so will go there Sat. as far as we know now.
Dear David – We are on Garuda flight from Djakarta to Bangkok and it left pretty well on schedule. After the flight to Bali on the small planes this jet seems rather smooth. We were supposed to leave here yesterday but due to circumstances beyond our control we were delayed. We arrived here on schedule and had Nitour agent meet us and thru customs OK. Our flight to Bali the next day was scheduled for 8:30 so we were at airport at 7:30 – told we must be there an hour early – we waited until nearly 10 o’clock before we could board. We were just half an hour out on way to Bali when suddenly plane turned around. Stewardess said one engine wasn’t doing right and that we had to return to Djakarta – so when we arrived back at airport were told to wait. After a while we were served some lemonade, then we sat again. Finally we were told no flight – we began to complain about flight being cancelled – they said not cancelled just postponed until tomorrow. We had to return to hotel and get a room. Couldn’t seem to get much information about anything. We were told to be at airport by 5 or 5:30 next a.m. We got up at about 4:30 and were at airport with the other tourists who had shared same fate. We saw our bags being loaded then taken off and we were told plane had to be used for military, and supplies. We went back to Garuda office and began to give them a bad time. We were given hotel accommodations by airline for our second night. We with the other tourists were at airport next a.m. and finally and at last were allowed to board a plane. It made two stops before going to Denpasar, John was waiting for us and his friend from Bali. The airline office had said they would send a message to John. We told them he would be waiting for us at airport. He didn’t get any message and had waited all day Tues. & Wed. to meet us. That cut our visit short but we got to see a lot in the four full days we were there. You can believe me we are glad to be on our way to Bangkok. We will tell you all about our Bali tour when we get home. John will be home at the end of June. He isn’t going to sign another contract. He doesn’t know yet what he is going to do but if he doesn’t work for a year he says he will have time to get caught up with things. He feels he can take a leave on his own. We really enjoyed our visit with him and I hated to leave him but since he plans to be home in a few months I can look forward to that. We were thinking about the suit we sent you. You will probably have to pay duty on it so if you do write us if you get it in time so we can pick up your letter in Paris. We will need that information when we go thru customs in Chicago, so be sure to let us know how much duty you have to pay. I haven’t written any letters since we left Hong Kong. I mailed one at airport in Bangkok so I mailed a letter there. I hope we have some letters when we get to hotel in Bangkok. Where we stayed in Bali was really out of touch with the outside world. I think they had a telephone or two but none where we were staying. No electricity. Our cottage had a wonderful view but not much in the way of accommodations. However, we were out sightseeing so much while we were there it didn’t make too much difference. We were glad to get back to hot shower in Djakarta. Hotel Indonesia is very modern. We used to think traffic around home and in Chicago area is bad but you haven’t lived dangerously until you have traveled around in taxis in this part of the world. I think a car is a challenge to any driver and he is not about to miss a challenge to frighten a passenger. We have met a number of fellow Americans going our way or crossing paths with us and it is easy to spot Americans. Most of them are friendly. It is like a large fraternal order. We never hesitate to speak to another American and have found most of them ready to converse. We were at airport this a.m. by 5 and there was an American couple and a woman from Switzerland – who lives in Kyoto Japan and is studying art and flower arranging – who we had seen on flight from Bali yesterday, so we stayed together until our plan took off. We were assigned seats at the front so they are back of us. I am trying to catch up on my letter writing so haven’t tried to talk to them since we boarded plane. We are cruising at 32,000 at 600 per hr. We are due to arrive in Bangkok at 10:15 – so our free day won’t be entirely lost by having to change flight plans one day. We lost our free day or part of it.
[page 2] I don’t know how long it will take us to go thru customs. We have a number of films we want to mail back to States when we get to Bangkok. We thought we could get processing done in Australia Hong Kong, but everything for our Kodak has [to] be sent to Australia. The film we bought in H.K. can be sent directly to N.Y. in a little sack, so that is what we are going to do with what we have taken since leaving there. We sent a box of several roles back to Art from H.K. I hope we can remember all the places we have taken pictures of. We left so early this a.m. we haven’t had any food – they did serve some pieces of candy when flight started. I think I could use a little breakfast about now. I thought I could smell food and hear silverware rattling, but since we are at front end we will be last to be served. We have traveled an hour since I started to write this – have a little less than 2 hours yet to Bangkok. So far flight has been smooth. It was very hot in Djakarta – warm even when we left the hotel at 5 a.m. but now I am wearing my silk raincoat and I am not too warm but at 32,000 ft. it does get a little chilly. Just a little incident that happened yesterday – on way to airport John had to scold his driver. He kept telling us he is going to get rid of him. Dad said he didn’t blame him. When driving thru country roads in Bali there are cars, bicycles, dogs, people, ducks, geese and it really looks like one land but two cars can pass. Driver wouldn’t regulate his driving according to conditions so finally John gave him a lecture – not a world we could understand because it was in Indonesian. After that, I asked John what he had said and he translated for me. You know John speaks Indonesian, Japanese, and Balinese. He could converse with anyone we met and as easily as a native. One day driver didn’t slow car when we were in a congested area and he killed a goose. John was very unhappy with him that day. Oh yes, I forgot to mention pigs on roads – the pigs and cows are all over the place. I can’t say much for sanitary conditions there. People are always washing and bathing but also use same stream for other purposes. You would have to see it to believe it.
Dear David: We went walking in garden in hotel grounds this a.m. – rained all day yesterday so we had to stay in. While we were walking we met an English woman & daughter. They were very friendly and we conversed a while. They are on a long tour, so we gave them some tips on Hawaii. They were very glad to have information. They are going on to Canada, then down to Calif. and on a bus to New Orleans. I wasn’t very enthused about that part of their trip so they wanted to know about bus travel. I told them they may like it but I wouldn’t travel as far as Chicago from home by bus unless I had to. We exchanged addresses and we are invited to visit them in London if we ever visit there. No one here in Japan can comprehend how cold it gets in our area. It is cold here now and I go wrapped with several layers of clothing, but nothing freezes here in the valley except tourists. We hope to reach a little warmer climate in Hong Kong tomorrow. Tomorrow is our last day of sight seeing here.
Dear David: We were invited to North Point Church today to hear Bishop Amstutz speak. After the service there was a dinner in honor of the Bishop and Bishop Ward’s widow. After the church service we were introduced to Bishop A. Since he was from Singapore I was sure he would be Bonnie’s Dad’s “Boss.” I told him we were going to Malacca to see McGraws. He said he knew about the engagement and that Bonnie’s mother had been granted permission to return for wedding. Since he had no way of knowing about us he was quite surprised when we told him who we are and where we were going. Bishop A. was in Indiana area in 1962 and I remember going to Attica to hear him speak. Since he has met thousands of people since then he would have no way of remembering me but seemed quite pleased when I told him about attending meeting. After the meeting and dinner (in a Chinese restaurant and pure Chinese dishes – nothing just for tourists) one of the men here – laison officer – drove us to Ferry dock and we came back to hotel. We have both been sleeping and just getting ready for trip to Djakarta tomorrow. Recently Bishop A. had been in Djakarta. The Methodist church has some mission work on Sumatra. The weather has been foggy the past two days so we are glad our sightseeing was done earlier. We still have a show every time we look out at harbor, so we have sightseeing whether we are out or in our room. Since Bishop A. doesn’t speak Chinese but Malayan he had to have the local Chinese minister translate for him. We could understand all Bishop A. said but not anything interpreter said as he translated. At one point Bishop A. said some flowery words about his interpreter – the Chinese congregation all chuckled. At the dinner liaison officer said translator said “more polite talk.” We entertained liaison officer Delmar Byler and his wife last night. One of the hotels here has a floor show which is a sampling of Chinese Opera. This is not season for Opera so we couldn’t see the real thing. The Bylers came to our room after dinner and we showed them some slides we brought from home of the family and a few of flowers & Mormon Temple on Hawaii. They visited until after midnight. Since we didn’t have to start for church until 10 o’clock this morning we weren’t in any hurry to get to bed. I may not be writing so much when we get to Bali, all depending on how much John has for us to see. Your new suit is finished and mailed home. It may be 6 weeks before you get it. We also mailed home several things we thought we wouldn’t need. We will know next time not to pack so much. Also I have a new suit and coat so won’t need ones I wore from home. I was so tired of those brown tones. I have a bright red suit and coat as bright as Bonnie’s velvet formal.
Have to leave our room every evening so the floor boy can come in and fix our beds. We had such a large noon meal decided we didn’t need much so ate very little. When we returned to room our beds were ready. All this service may spoil me. I think I could use an Amah or house boy and as many as live here I am sure one of two wouldn’t be missed. Tomorrow we fly Japanese Air and when you board one of their planes food starts flowing. We will have a 7 or 8 hr. flight so will probably be well fed by the time we reach Djakarta.
We have had a tour of Wesley Village (oldest), Epworth Village (newest), and North Point Church. All those are located on Hong Kong Island. Our hotel is on Kowloon Peninsula, but all is part of Hong Kong. We took several pictures Wednesday when we visited the above mentioned. This a.m. we went on our own to see a floating clinic which is operated by a Methodist M.D. who also is a preacher. He is not with Methodist mission but sponsored by “Concern” our organization in Calif. He is Dr. Jim Turpin. At present he is in Saigon, but this morning we met his wife and several people who are helping in clinic. This clinic (“Concern”) is surrounded by sampans and junks. We had to hire a sampan to take us out. Mrs. Turpin was coming in so we came back to shore with her on sampan clinic hires by month. We have found the place to send our drug samples. We took quite a few pictures this a.m. and it is almost beyond description to tell you what we saw. I think I can tell you better when we get back. These water people have no other homes but these little sampans and junks. They desperately need medical attention. Mrs. Turpin said they are so grateful for the services of clinic and would never think of calling for Dr. when clinic is closed. I wish the people in our area would be so considerate of us. Dr. Turpin left a good practice in Calif. to come here to do this work. They have four children. I asked her if the children attended boarding schools – she said no day schools and they have their living quarters below deck. There is a sun deck where children can play. The dispensary is on main deck. There is a place at one side of clinic where people bring their children for milk, cookies, and vitamins. Just like our drive-ins back home. They just push their sampans up to window and two girls hand out the food. This afternoon we are to see Asbury Village. A Mr. Delmar Byler is to be our escort. Seeing villages requires climbing down and when we leave climbing back up. Everything is built on sides of mountains. More building going on all the time to make houses for refugees. There are many government houses but not enough. Thousands of refugees are still in squatter shacks on sides of mountain. One thing we noticed – most of the squatters have gardens if there is dung ground. Some of these mountains have terraced gardens almost to top. If our people back home could see the great need here and as I mentioned in Japan I think they would be more concerned about Mission. One thing more about “Concern” the Rotary Club here has added an additional unit to original clinic. We took pictures of the clinic with Rotary wheel on side. We were in a sampan. I hope the motion didn’t spoil picture.
[page 2] Your suit is about ready. We are going to have it mailed to you to save us carry it home. They assured us we need not worry about the fit. I hope they are right. We saw the Chinese border yesterday and took some pictures. Dad said that was one place a telescopic camera would be the thing to have. We saw quite a few sights that weren’t for anyone with a weak stomach. There is so much filth in some places we wonder what keeps people from dying in droves. I am certainly glad we had all our shots. So far we haven’t had any stomach trouble at all. We are trying to be careful. It is a beautiful day and we are about ready to take off for another jaunt. As Daddy has been writing to a few people – having wonderful time – wish you could be here.
We talked to John today but didn’t get name of hotel where we will be staying so unless it is something urgent send our mail after we leave here to Bangkok. I suppose you could send it to Ubud, Bali, Indonesia, General delivery. We took a tour of Hong Kong Island today and saw quite a few sights. Our guide took us into a Chinese market. You wouldn’t believe it unless you see it. We snapped a few pictures. We ate lunch at Floating Restaurant and had so much we weren’t hungry enough to eat dinner tonight. Dad did have a sandwich at about 10:30. We are going to get a tour of Wesley Village tomorrow. I brought my Prayer Calendar along so looked up the Methodist people here. I called a Rev. Kenneth McIntosh. He was very accommodating and has arranged several things for us. He invited us to church Sunday. When I first talked to him I told him we were planning to attend, so he thought we would be interested in attending the original Methodist church in H.K. We have another agency tour Thursday. I ordered a suit made for you and I hope it fits and that you will like material I selected. I hope it is satisfactory on both counts because it wasn’t cheap. Dad is having a suit made and I am having a suit & coat. I sent Shirley a hand decorated sweater and skirt material. Since I measured her, I wasn’t too sure and thought best not to try to have anything made for her. We have been hearing from people at the hospital regularly. Had letters from Edna & Arvella yesterday. Arvella had to get glasses to wear when she reads. She said Edna is still having trouble with her teeth. I wrote to Bonnie’s mother today and told her when we would be in Malacca.
[page 2] Give the Kings my regards and remember what I said about not wearing your welcome out. The Chinese New Year is Feb. 13 and to celebrate we heard on news today water will be turned on several hours that day. We have to take a bath either between 6:30 & 7:00 p.m. or 7:30 & 8:00 a.m. That is when water is in pipes in hotels. In the homes here they get water once every 4 days. Our guide says they have to store water in cans to have enough to get along between the 4 day periods. The rainfall has been short here the past year and reservoir is low. They depend on rainfall for all their water supply. A new reservoir is being built but isn’t ready yet. There is a carrier “parked” in harbor which we have seen since we have been here. It makes a pretty sight when it is lighted at night. The lights on Hong Kong Island across harbor also affords us a beautiful view day and night. It is getting late, so will have to finish this.
We are having a wait at Tokyo International Airport. Our plane was to leave at 6:30 – has been delayed 2 hrs. 15 mi., so we are waiting in lounge. It is very comfortable but we have had a long day. We did get to see Mt. Fuji several times while driving from Fuji hotel to Tokyo. After an unusual amount of rain – so we were told – this morning sky was clear. We had a chance to see the top of Fuji from several places not far from hotel, then the further we drove toward Tokyo we could see more. It is really a beautiful sight. We took several pictures. We stopped at Kamakura to see the large bronze Buddah which stands in open. Tidal waves in past have washed away temple, so the people decided Buddah didn’t want to be in a house. I asked our guide if it was solid – he said no we could enter at back. We went inside and climbed stairway to about the head. There was a little statue of Buddah inside head cavity facing us. That Buddah statue (large one) was cast two hundred years ago before Columbus discovered America. There are always crowds coming and going from shrines and temples. There are always concession stands and food. I think the people here eat as much as Americans do. We stopped at one place along the route and had a view of Fuji. We were by ocean and below us on beach artists were painting Fuji. Our guide said today was unusually clear. He wanted to take our picture with Fuji in background. In fact he had us pose in two different places, so if he clicked shutter right, we should have some good pictures. We stopped at New Grand Hotel in Yokohama and had lunch. Our guide hesitated about eating with us but we asked him to. He said the harbor we were looking at – dining room faces harbor – was the one Perry used to force Japanese to open door to world. He says there is still some question in the minds of some people if it was a wise thing to open door. I asked him if he worked for Travel Bureau all the time. He said he had studied law 3 years and is now studying to be a diplomat. He speaks English and Spanish. He gave us his card when he left us here at airport and we gave him our address. We told him if he ever gets into Chicago area to come see us. He was going to stay with us until our place comes in, but we told him that wouldn’t be necessary. This lounge is more comfortable and luxurious than any at O’Hare. There is a large fish bowl with some of the most exotic fish I have ever seen here in lounge. Music keeps playing all the time. All kinds of music. I am sitting where I can watch the TV that gives departures & arrivals and our Pan Am is still late. Dad has gone to ticket desk to get our seat assignments. While it was still daylight we sat by window and watched people come and go to and from observation platform. There people wear all types of clothing – Kimonos – modern – and some are real beatniks. A few women try to dye hair red but the most we have seen just wear it natural black.
I mailed you a letter from Atami, but received yours when we arrived at Fujiya Hotel. Now please be careful with your habits at the new address. I know you are good friends but a good way to spoil a good friendship is to become too friendly, so be careful not to presume on your reputation. You wouldn’t have cared for the drive we just had – we came thru 10 Province Pass. We came thru rain, snow, fog & maybe a little sleet. We were to see Mt. Fuji en route (weather permitting – it didn’t permit). There are some people traveling around but this isn’t their busy season. On the train we saw a lot of green things but in spring and summer it must be beautiful. We will be here two days, then go to Hong Kong. It isn’t exactly warm here but when we get to Indonesia I know we will be in warm zone again. By this time you should have received several cards and letters because I have been very faithful in my writing to you. I have used most of the labels for others I made before we started. I didn’t intend to write to everyone often. There are a lot of hotels in this area. I can hear a group of people in the hall, so we will have someone besides ourselves here this evening. When we went to Nikko I think there was one other couple besides two single men in hotel. We have discovered that a lot of Japanese people can read and write English but is hard at time to make them understand what we say. Even our guides have difficulty at times. I don’t even try to speak to them in their language because I think I would pronounce – according to the books we have – words so differently than should be, they couldn’t get what I would be trying to say. The little maid in the Miyato Hotel I mentioned in another letter got along with us in conversation very well. I promised to send her a pr. of knit house slippers. She was so pleased she told me to let her know when we checked out so she could take our bags down for us. We were not supposed to tip but Dad gave her one and she seemed very pleased. She was really a nice person. I told Dad I thought I would take her home with me. Dad has just about finished L. Nizer’s My Life in Court. We have a beautiful view from our bedroom window, shrubs, trees, a walk down the side of a mountain, a mist if falling and water is hanging in drops on trees. There is fog but I can see the outline of mt. top.
[page 2] We should get a good rest here before we move on – although we aren’t tired. I just hope weather permits us to travel to point where Mt. Fuji is visible. When we were in Kyoto it seemed like we walked miles and miles on those tours but after a little soreness in the back of my legs I was ready for more walking. We didn’t have any tours yesterday so went out on our won. I looked for missionaries in Prayer Calendar in Kyoto. A Mr. James Robert Camp was listed – also Doshisha University. We went to the University in a taxi and made inquiries but no one seemed to know anything about him. At least we tried. I know when we get to Malacca we will find someone. There are several listed in Prayer Calendar for Hong Kong, so will see who we can find there. Dr. & Mrs. Mathews also gave us some names of people they thought we should see while there. – Remember my admonition.
We have just finished a train ride from Kyoto to Atami where we have had lunch at Atami Hotel. At 2:30 we go by car to Hakone to Fujiya Hotel. Our train ride was about 4 hrs. and 41 min. It is very beautiful here at Atami but cloudy. The mountains come right down to sea. We can see both from lounge. A TV set is on and several Japanese are listening to some Japanese girls sing a very swing. It is also a panel program. One of our guides – an older man – said he didn’t like to see the young girls wear western style clothes. I think his is a lost cause. We have walked thru several Dept. stores just to see what they are like and they have everything imaginable for sale. There are the traditional J. clothing but a lot of western style. We have seen modern appliances – even electric organs. Yesterday we were going thru music dept. and heard a funny record in English. I couldn’t see anyone around us but Japanese, so don’t know who was listening to it. It is about time for us to start on our car trip to Hakone, so must get this finished.
P.S. I think there is a great need here for Christian missionaries. We visited places show on this folder.