Tag Archives: genealogy

Fashion Moments – Bolero & Zouave Jackets

Welcome to my weekly fashion blog post. Each week I will discuss a female garment, fashion trend or influencer from the age of photography (1840s through the 20th century). My goal is to educate family researchers and genealogists about the clothing worn by our ancestors. Dating photographs is an issue we all struggle with as family archivists. Additionally, anyone who writes about their family’s history should be aware of the environment in which their ancestors lived. Period clothing is an important part of that environment from how it affects a person’s movement to their overall lifestyle. This week I introduce you to the Bolero and Zouave jackets.

The Jackets

A Dictionary of Costume and Fashion: Historic and Modern describes the Bolero jacket as a “short jacket no longer than normal waistline, with or without sleeves. Worn open in front over bodice or blouse. Spanish in origin.” In comparison, the Zouave jacket is described as a “woman’s short jacket with rounded front, made in imitation of [the] jacket of [the] Zouave uniform. Sometimes sleeveless.” The descriptions of the two types of jackets are quite similar. For this post it is not important to know the subtle differences between the two styles but rather that the style of jacket was popular during the Civil War years. One of the reasons behind the popularity was the use of a Zouave style jacket in many volunteer units. The French Zouaves were an elite military force during the nineteenth century. Because the Civil War was an overwhelming influence on the lives of all Americans (including women), ladies’ fashion adopted some military characteristics, including the use of a Zouave style jacket. While the construction of the garment could be quite simple, existing examples of these garments show extensive embroidery and trimmings.

Many of the popular ladies’ magazines published fashion plates and patterns for Zouave jackets. Godey’s Lady’s magazine published many versions of the jacket, including this early one from 1859. Below are some plates and patterns from other periodicals of the day.

The Library of Congress’ collection of Prints and Photographs has many examples of Zouave jackets, including these two photographs from between 1860-1865.

Images

Reddish brown silk dress, American, 1860-1865. Metropolitan Museum of Art. Accession no: C.I.50.105.16a, b

White with black embroidery promenade dress, American, 1862-1864. Metropolitan Museum of Art. Accession no: C.I.60.6.11a, b

Yellow pattern silk dress with green trim, French, 1862. Metropolitan Museum of Art. Accession no: 1973.244.1a–c

Thomas J. Watson Library, The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Women 1860-1861, plates 56, 114

Thomas J. Watson Library, The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Women 1862, plates 92

Thomas J. Watson Library, The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Women 1863, plate 8

Unidentified woman, c1860-1863. Library of Congress Prints and Photographs Collection. Call number: LOT 6286, p. 29

Unidentified soldier with two women, c1861-1865. Library of Congress Prints and Photographs Collection. Call number: AMB/TIN no. 2703

Sources

Picken, Mary Brooks. A Dictionary of Costume and Fashion: Historic and Modern. Mineola, New York: Dover Publications, Inc. 1985.

George Wingfield, Jr. (George)

1 Reply

: December 28, 1943 envelope

: December 28, 1943, p. 1

: December 28, 1943, p. 2

: December 28, 1943, p. 3

Letter transcription:

Dec. 28, 1943

Dear Mrs. Yegerlehner,

It’s been over two months since my return and in the meantime Jake (that’s what we called your husband) has been transferred to the cooler areas someplace, I think, in New Zealand, although I’m not too sure.

At any rate a lot of mail that has been following me for three months caught up – finally and in it, a letter from the Doctor. He said to be sure and drop you a line

[page 2] an believe me I wouldn’t fail him.

His 18 months should be up the first of February although it may take a little longer in that things aren’t quite as automatic as they sound. Jake was fine when I last saw him in August.

We had a lot of fun out there amongst ourselves along with the harder side of life as the Solomons (Russell Islands to be more specific) aren’t exactly a playground even in peace time.

Jake is not only a good doctor – and that I mean – but a good friend as well – and he spoke so much of his wife that I couldn’t help but admire you both for what you are to each other. I hope to have the pleasure of meeting you when this is over. Happy New Year and the wish for your husband’s quick

[page 3] return. You must all stop off in Reno sometime when you are out West and we’ll “fight the war” in retrospect as it should be fought. We’ll all sing “Indiana, Indiana” in Nevada.

Sincerely,
George Wingfield, Jr.

P.S. Jake was so anxious that you got the flowers. I hope they arrived in good shape.

©2015 copyright owned and transcribed by Deborah Sweeney
Post originally found: https://genealogylady.net/2015/09/06/george-wingfield-jr-george/

Second Letter (Gladys)

2 Replies

: December 27, 1943 envelope

: December 27, 1943, p. 1

: December 27, 1943, p. 2

Letter transcription:

Kentland, Ind.
Dec. 27 – 1943

Dear Daddy –

I have been working on the financial statement – but having no adding machine I didn’t go into such details as groc. bills, lights, telephone, etc. but here is a list of Ins. – $443.55 – House $508.48 – Piano $300.oo – Loans paid $243.91 & $173.69 – Bike $35.00 – Hospital $128.80 – Bonds – $131.25 – coal $100.00 – The total of the above amounts to $2064.68 – The balance necessary to meet expenses is long & detailed and I’ll try to get the columns added so I can give you a complete report. As you will note I have not paid any Taxes (except $6.60 for the first of the year) but Agnes M. said for me not to. I think I have explained all about the taxes before. Even the gross isn’t paid by people in Service. The $330.00 you sent will take care of Ins. coming due the first of the year and I think I can buy some bonds, too. Our present bal. is $301.81 – and with the Jan. 1 cks. coming I’ll dep. $170.00 – There are bills amounting to $174.00 to be paid in Jan. – that doesn’t include groc. Bills which should amt. to about $30.00 – so I should be able to buy some bonds and still keep a comfortable bal. Does all the above sound complicated and as clear as a woman would make it? Thought I would give you food for thought – let you figure some of it out for yourself – I think you can add and deduct the right figures.

The other evening we were listening to Red Skeltons’ program and Ozzie & Harriet sang a song that sounded like double talk, but it is something like the tobacco auctioneers chant –

[page 2] It is Mares eat oats, Does eat oats, little kids lambs eat ivy, little kids lambs eat ivy – a kid’ll eat ivy too, wouldn’t you – Now just say it like this: Marze dotes and dozee doze, liddle lamz edivy, liddle lamz edivy, a kiddle dee divvy too, wouldn’t chew – I wish I could tell you the tune too – We all go around here singing Marze dotes. It’s just one of those silly catchy things. I know if you could have picked it up you would probably be humming it too.

It is getting late and I need some extra sleep to make up for getting a little tired over the holidays. We just listened to Dogwood and it was all about snoring – Imagine anything like that being funny. Sometimes David makes a noise in the night if he doesn’t sleep soundly – I don’t know what makes him do it, but Earl said he heard him all night Sat. when we stayed there. I really believe he heard him just a little while because I heard him, I think, about 4 a.m. but you know people think they hear things all night long, when they don’t – and especially if they aren’t feeling well.

Your Mother’s box came today and there was a picture of her & dad, done by a photographer. I hope she sent you one because it’s a very good picture. Pjs for J. & M. and a dollar for D. With the ten you sent & the 1.00 Mrs. P. gave him I am going to add enough for him a bond.

This is my second letter to you today, but the first one was written early this a.m. We’ll add a line in the morning.

Love Mother

Tues Morn – Yours of Dec. 18 & 19 came today. Also a letter from Glen & Pauline with $20.00 – $5.00 for each of us – They couldn’t find anything to send for gifts so just sent money. I sent them a box about two wks. before Christmas.

©2015 copyright owned and transcribed by Deborah Sweeney
Post originally found: https://genealogylady.net/2015/09/04/second-letter-gladys/

Trouble with the Furnace (Roscoe)

1 Reply

: December 27, 1943 envelope

: December 27, 1943, p. 1

: December 27, 1943, p. 2

Letter transcription:

Lieut. R.S. Yegerlehner USNR
USN Base Hosp. #4 Navy 133
F.P.O. San Francisco Calif.
Dec. 27, 1943

Dear Mother,

Received several letters from you today – Yours & the boys Christmas greetings – a letter and box from the folks and a greeting card letter and picture from Dolores. The picture was of she and he taken in Washington. I’ll have to re-read your letters before I write next time because I’m on-duty now and the letters aren’t where I am. And that is also the reason for the pencil.

You mentioned the check – That was the first one I sent. Hope the other one have arrived by now. Your mail service that way must be pretty good – almost as good as when I was back up the way.

A Newton Co. E. came today – The one telling of C.O. Riggs. That was the first I knew of the whole thing and in it was an account of the Simison girl having her appendicitis – Lots of news – Even Grace Cox was in the hospital. You haven’t mentioned lately whether Dr. Van Kirk is back at work or not – Maybe you aren’t interested in him. Not even enough for him you to write about him.

It seems you are having trouble with the

[page 2] furnace and Indiana Coal. Can’t Geo. Monroe get the thing regulated? Why don’t you have him make trips out there about every hour some day to check on it to see if he can really get things going?

I’m going to check the figures on the finances you gave and probably will have some comment about those but I read the letters so rapidly I couldn’t tell now a single figure you mentioned.

Do you remember a long time ago I mentioned sending an officer home with a bad eye? About June first. He is now back out at the first station when I was first located. He was back there U.S.A. for 5 months, so I guess he doesn’t have too much to complain about.

Well, next time I’ll answer more of your letters.
Love Daddy

P.S. also got a letter from Wayne W.

©2015 copyright owned and transcribed by Deborah Sweeney
Post originally found: https://genealogylady.net/2015/09/03/trouble-with-the-furnace-roscoe/

That Old Biological Urge (Gladys)

2 Replies

: December 27, 1943 envelope

: December 27, 1943, p. 1

: December 27, 1943, p. 2

Letter transcription:

Kentland Ind.
Dec 27 – 1943

Dear Daddy –

Yours of Dec. 14-15-16 & 17 came this morning. I was feeding David and when he quit eating I read your letters before I had my breakfast. The ck. was along in the letter of the 16^th. I will get it banked today and work on the statement I want you to have. I am so tired today, should be able to get some written work done because I haven’t pep enough to do much else. I did too much hurrying around for Christmas, but I think a day or two of relaxing will fix me up. I am supposed to go to Laf. Wed. to get my lenses or rather left lense replaced so will take Mark to have the X-ray you suggested. Mark is a little run down now too. Had a little cold Christmas day but I think with a few days rest will be ready for school Monday. He is just like he was when you were home – runs himself ragged if I don’t hold him down. He was so good after he got over his tonsil operation. All signs of nervousness had gone, but after he was in school a while he began jerking his head again and going other little things nervously. I know from past experiences, rest is the best thing for him. I think he skipped his cod liver oil before Christmas several times and I think that is one reason he has a cold.

The new Digest came this morning and John is reading it while I write this, then he is going to the P.O. and bank. There is a package at the

[page 2] P.O. It could be from your mother or Glenn. Your mother didn’t get his gifts sent to Ruth’s or to us. She had the flu pretty hard. I hated that because she had been feeling so extra good.

David is in his bed playing with some of his new toys. – I just looked in and he has thrown toys on the floor and is playing with the box they were in. He woke me up about 6 this morning and I had to change his pants – he went back to sleep and I did too. It was past 8 when he got me awake again. I got up and brought him down for his breakfast. The shoes you mentioned have been returned. We will talk about someone else to wear them when you come home – but you know me – that old biological urge has always been strong. I have had a lot of time to think about “things” since David came. So many people have voiced the opinion that baby raising is harder on older mothers, but I don’t agree with that theory now, that after a ten year pause, I have had 15 months of baby care. I find I have more patience with D. than I had with J. or M. Maybe I have had more time to devote to D. – or have I? At any rate I have enjoyed taking care of him – and don’t think I could get tired of it. He is walking around now with his new Christmas bathrobe on. He is a nosey little fellow and keeps someone busy saying no! no! All the time he is out “on the loose.” We have him “almost” trained to leave the coffee table alone – not quite.

Mrs. Z. came over last night. She says Virginia is getting along fine now. I knitted a bag & mittens for her and cap & mittens for Betty for Christmas. I brought home a job from Ruth’s. I am to knit a sweater for Romaine – I told her maybe I would get it done for her graduation.

“Love Mother”

©2015 copyright owned and transcribed by Deborah Sweeney
Post originally found: https://genealogylady.net/2015/09/02/that-old-biological-urge-gladys/

Christmas Dinner and a Wedding (Roscoe)

2 Replies

: December 26, 1943 envelope

: December 26, 1943, p. 1

: December 26, 1943, p. 2

: December 26, 1943, p. 3

: December 26, 1943, p. 4

Letter transcription:

Lieut. R.S. Yegerlehner USNR
USN Base Hosp. #4
Navy 133
F.O.P. San Francisco Calif.
Dec. 26, 1943

Dear Mother,

Now that Christmas is over and things have quieted down to a lazy Sunday P.M. a letter might be in order.

First here is the menu of our Christmas dinner – 1. Tomato Juice cocktail 2. Creamed Turkey soup with rice 3. Roast Vermont Turkey 4. Giblet Gravy 4. Dressings 5. Lettuce and tomato salad 6. Ice cream with fresh strawberry sauce 7. Oranges 8. Candy 9. Nuts 10. Cigars & 11. Cigarettes and 12. Coffee. I don’t believe I left anything out. Yes these were sugar cookies

[page 2] to eat with the ice cream. I copied that from a menu which was all prepared, etc., but couldn’t be sent thru the mail.

When I told you about that wedding being Christmas day I was mistaken. It is this P.M. instead and I’m waiting for something to develop. It’s supposed to be at 1600 and it is now 1400 so I have some time to kill. I’ll add a note at the end if anything startling happens.

Yesterday’s mail brought only a letter from Ruby Cunningham. She just wrote out of a clear sky and last night after writing that short note I wrote her a letter so

[page 3] you can see how I spent Christmas night. There was a show which was only fair and I played a game or two of Acey Ducey.

I’m going to make a New Year’s R. to write all those people I owe letters. That is almost a week away so I have that much time to delay. I used to like to write and would generally get the answer out on return mail but not so anymore. I’ve written & rewritten the writable things and that must be the reason for my change. Then too maybe I don’t have as much time, or maybe I don’t use my time as I used to do. Anyway I don’t write as many letters now as one year ago.

[page 4] I haven’t written the Folks yet today but will before the wedding. It keeps me from getting so nervous about the affair – say who is getting married? I’ll finish later.

Several hours later – The wedding was a great success. The groom kissed the bride. There wasn’t any fanfare. Just a quiet little affair with me the only American there except the Chaplin but for that matter there was only about 8 other people there and I didn’t act as best man. They didn’t have one of those things. I just had to sign as a witness. After the affair they took some pictures. The only one I got in was the one of the Chaplin & I. Romantic don’t you think –

Well Dear hope you had a nice Christmas
Lots of Love
Daddy

©2015 copyright owned and transcribed by Deborah Sweeney
Post originally found: https://genealogylady.net/2015/09/01/christmas-dinner-and-a-wedding-roscoe/

Tired Tonight (Gladys)

1 Reply

: December 26, 1943 envelope

: December 26, 1943, p. 1

: December 26, 1943, p. 2

Letter transcription:

Kentland Ind.
12-26-43

Dear Daddy –

Since I couldn’t mail the letter I wrote yesterday – the one the whole family signed, will just tuck another letter in. We left Ruth’s after dinner. It had turned rainy and I wanted to get home. Earl was in bed and I thought the sooner we got away the better for him. He didn’t have much temp. but Ruth said he was very tired and over worked and thought that was the reason he felt so all in. – We came home thru Watseka so I could see the Roberts. The two older children had colds and were established on the davenport, so I didn’t take our family in – She had a painting of Joe. Someone where he is happens to be an artist and I think it is a good portrait. However his Dad didn’t think it looked like him. I never did think a painted portrait looked like photography – Maybe Dr. R. is used to looking at Joe’s pictures by camera and that is the reason he didn’t think the portrait looked like him.

[page 2] Joe sent his family several travel books last year (or sometime) and Mrs. R. loaned them to us to look at. I just wish I had been able to take them along to Ruth’s. She said we should have something like them to look thru – however, she didn’t know anything about these. They came directly from there and should be authentic. She had in mind National Geographic. I have looked thru all but not read them yet. I must say the scenery is beautiful. Like Yellow Stone Park or similar places in this country.

I am tired tonight. Getting ready for Christmas, going to Ruth’s, driving, etc. I should be in bed now and am on my way. I sent Mark to bed early – he has a head cold. I think he has been skipping his cod liver oil when I don’t remind him to take it. It is warmer and I think the ice is melting so there won’t be much skating, if any. There won’t be any for him until he gets all over his cold. John is playing his records I gave him. David of course has been tucked in for some time. He has had a lot of fun with his new toys since we came home. He upset a box of candy under the tree twice – however it was wrapped caramels so no harm done. Ruth says he still looks like you across the eyes but I think his mouth is more like Mark’s. His teeth seem to be prominent – I wonder if the thumb sucking is going that or if his mouth would be that way naturally. It isn’t bad, but just a little prominent.

Love
Mother

Fashion Moments – Armistice Blouse

3 Replies

Armistice Blouse

The armistice blouse gets its name from the popular style of shirtwaists worn by women around the time of the World War I armistice in 1918. However, the name was not used until many years later when it was adopted by costumers and historians. A typical armistice blouse was made from a lightweight, semi-transparent fabric, like silk, cotton lawn/voile or handkerchief linen. A defining characteristic of the blouse was its decorative center panel which often featured lace inserts, embroidery or pin tucking. Many had long collars (around the top portion of the neckline) which often extended to the top of the center panel or even further. Generally, they were white or light beige (natural undyed fabric). Some armistice blouses have center front closures with sailor styled collars.

Images

A vintage armistice blouse from my personal collection which I bought at an antique mall many moons ago. The center panel on this blouse features a mixture of pin tucks and lace inserts. The sides of the center panel are decorated with embroidered buttons. The blouse is made of silk.

Advertisement for a blouse from the January 1919 issue of the Woman’s Home Companion, p. 26, via Google Books.

Advertisement for Lord & Taylor from Vogue Magazine, 1918. NYPL catalog ID (B-number) : b17122179

Christmas Day 1943 (Gladys)

1 Reply

: December 25, 1943, p. 1

: December 25, 1943, p. 2

Letter transcription:

Christmas Day
Written from
Wilmington – 1943

Dear Daddy –

As you will note from the heading we have spent the day with the Mutchlers and are all in bed except Ruth & Romaine. Ruth is in the bathroom & Romaine is out with Jerry. We came over this a.m. – Had dinner at 1 P.M. In the afternoon Earl began feeling worse from his cold and Ruth and I prevailed upon him to see a Dr. and he finally went to see Dr. Wilson. He came back with two kinds of medicine and got five does down before we started to retire. He chilled from time to time – sat over the radiator all evening with a blanket around him. I told him to go to bed but he wanted to get his five doses down before retiring. He is tucked in now with heating pad but says he feels better. I noticed Mark sounded nasal after we got here so I used some nose drops on him when I tucked him in. If he isn’t better in the morning will do something about his cold. So far the rest of us are all normal, except my sinus drainage which I have had all winter, so nothing to be alarmed about.

This evening we talked a lot about you and looked at your pictures. Ruth got out some of your letters and read excerpts from same. She got out the world books and read about places and things.

[page 2] Last night we had our usual gift exchange. Dorothy wanted to see David get his gifts so I kept him up until 8 P.M. and she & Buddy came out and we gave him his gifts. Before she got there he spied the dog behind the tree Jimmy Staton had given him – It wasn’t wrapped. He wanted it so much we gave it to him. He holds his toys and we say “love the dog” (cat, etc.) and he pats some wrinkles up his nose and makes a funny little noise that is his way of loving. He had quite a time with all his gifts, which included plastic block, wood blocks, dogs, a jeep, bathrobe, house slippers and several wooden toys. I held J. & M. off for a while after David was put to bed. We had boxes with gifts from Jim & Thelma, Ruth & Floyd, & Ruth M. – I gave John records and money. I gave Mark some work sets – and things he likes to play with. They both thoughts they had a nice Christmas. Jim sent me a navy pin – it has the Lt. bars – is very pretty.

It is 11:30 & I am sleepy – Ruth said they would all sign this in the morning & let David make a mark.

Love Mother
Romaine
David
Mark
John
How are you coming boys O.K. I hope Mutch
We have had a nice Christmas, hope you have to. Lots of love & best wishes for the New Year
Ruth

P.S. I tried to hold David’s hand and he didn’t like the idea. The pencil mark are his.

Christmas Eve in the Pacific (Roscoe)

1 Reply

: December 24, 1943, p. 1

: December 24, 1943, p. 2

: December 24, 1943, p. 3

: December 24, 1943, p. 4

Letter transcription:

Lieut. R.S. Yegerlehner USNR
USN Base Hosp. #4 Navy 133
F.P.O. San Francisco Calif.
Dec. 24, 1943

Dear Mother,

This being Christmas Eve, I should write something different probably but I haven’t the slightest idea what it would be. I just got it. From my window I can see a farmer making hay and I really mean hay – you know the kind that cows eat. Now that was never heard of around there so it must be different. Another thing that I’ve noticed in town which is different is the fresh vegetables right in with the Christmas decorations. I don’t mean by that that we don’t have fresh

[page 2] vegetables at home on Christmas but this is the summer type vegetables with the winter or Christmas decorations. I guess I’ve run that far enough or probably too far.

I’ve started writing again before mail time so here’s hoping there can be a foot note saying that letters came.

In a letter a few days ago I wrote of this friend of mine wanting the blood test for marriage. Well the Chaplin informs me this A.M. that I’m to attend the wedding and possibly be the best man. If I am the best man I’m going to be certain about that kiss to the bride. I mean if it is a

[page 3] practice here, Gee I’m all worked up. Not about the best man’s job as such but about the kiss. It is not going to be a double ring affair because she doesn’t want it that way. She said she could trust him so he didn’t have to wear a ring. Was my face red when she looked at my ring? Of course, if he goes back where he was she will have nothing to worry about because all the “babes” up there are a little shy.

We have a show tonite and after that we will probably open our Christmas packages. Most of the packages won’t be opened in the usual manner

[page 4] because who ever heard of using a bottle opener or a cork screw to open packages.

Later: In fact it is almost Christmas day and things haven’t been too bad for Christmas Eve. I’d say there was very little difference between this and last year even though the setting is different than that of one year ago. As I said it is almost Christmas and I’m still able to write so I’m doing alright. Maybe I could write better if I were drunk but it’s too late to start now. I’ll just have to wait until a later date – anyway don’t worry because I won’t get too drunk. John’s v-mail came and that was all there was for me today. Hope I do better on Christmas day.

Love Daddy